Stepping into Helmy"s spotless kitchen, I ***ed as his cook (also named Tarek), worked up a sweat rocking an arched blade to and fro over fresh molokhia leaves. Known as a makhrata, the mezzaluna-like utensil was created specifically for shredding molokhia. It"s a laborious task, which, it transpires, is key to molokhia"s uniquely mucilaginous (gum-like) texture – one that has tourists either loving or loathing the dish.