Amidst this gloomy ensemble, two structures stand out. The first is the city"s tax office, a hulking grey block adorned with a gigantic bas-relief depicting – across 57 sculpted panels  – the unassailable rise of Italian Fascism, from the March on Rome to the colonial conquests in Africa. In its centre is a depiction of Mussolini on horseback, his right arm outstretched in a Roman salute. It"s a remarkable piece of fascist agitprop architecture – awe-inspiring, odious and perplexing all at once.